FÉLIX RODRÍGUEZ DE LA FUENTE SAFARI EASTERN AFRICA 1972 SUPER 8 MM : RESTORED AND DIGITIZED IN HD

Text and Pictures: José Manuel Serrano Esparza
SPANISH
In 1972, two years before the shooting of the first chapters of the mythical series Man & The Earth devoted to the Fauna of Venezuela (The Yanomamos: A Jungle Country, Searching for the Orinoco Indians, My Friend the Otter, The Lost Eden, The Sacred Mountain, The Jaguar World, Anaconda Operation and others), Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente travelled to Eastern Africa (Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda), filming one of the most touching, charming and symbolic documentary films in his lifetime: SAFARI.

A TROVE ABOUT TO BE LOST
Forty years have elapsed since Dr Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente (top qualitative benchmark in the world along with the British Sir David Attenborough regarding the documentary movies on Fauna) made this wonderful production shot with cinematographic 35 mm Kodak Eastmancolor Type 5247 film and Arriflex IIC camera with Angenieux zoom 25-250 f/2.3 zoom lens.

Safari, filmed in Kenya (Reserve of Amboseli, Reserve of Mara Masai in Serengueti area and Region of Tsavo), Tanzania (Conservation Zone of Ngorongoro and its crater, National Park of Kilimanjaro, Lake Manyara in the east of Rift) and Uganda (Murchison Park by the banks of Nilo Victoria river, Great Valley of Rift, Lake Victoria, Lake Albert - in the frontier with the old Belgian Congo or Zaire) in 1972, is full of wondrous images in which appear a wide range of highly representative species of the African Fauna, it all commented with the unutterable voice, passion, knowledge and conviction in everything he said of the legendary and yearned Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente.

But because in mid seventies there weren´t Beta or VHS domestic video players, Safari was launched into market through copies made on Super 8 mm Kodak Ektachrome 160 Type A film reels (manufactured from the original 35 mm Kodak Eastmancolor Type 5247 cinematographic film exposed in Eastern Africa at ASA 64 with daylight filters Kodak Wratten Gelatine 85, 85N3 and 85N6 put on the Angenieux 25-250 f/3.2 lens, depending on the f-stops used),

which were the ones on sale for the public four decades ago, for their home watching, and have the drawback that unlike the unbeatable Super 8 mm format Kodachrome 40, the passing of years degrades it to a great extent in various sides, which hasn´t been an exception in the very few still extant reels of Safari Super 8 mm movie, most of them are currently in a fairly poor condition and suffering from the following defects:

- Reddish shade on a high percentage of the frames.

- Abundant presence of scratches.

- Dented areas.

- Decoloration.

- Massive quantities of dust adhered on many of the frames.

- Contrast loss.

- Sharpness decrease.

- Constant difficulty to handle the footage of the reel (most times brittle, with the steady risk of breakage of stretches of film, due to vinegar effect with subsequent decomposition of the cellulose triacetate of which the emulsion is made).

- Loss of chromatic accuracy.

- Bleaching and fading of the film because of the emulsion overheating on being repeatedly projected throughout years with Super 8 mm projectors featuring halogen lamps with powers between 50 and 250 W.

- Warping in a number of film stretches, which hampers the frames scanning.

- Holes on different frames, brought about by very high temperatures reached in specific areas of the emulsion when it sometimes gets stuck in the projector film transport door.

- Lack of luminic evenness in a high percentage of frames, with highly visible fall-off.

- Adhered segments of film because of elapse of time, with risk of breakage on trying to detach them.

IN SEARCH FOR THE PRESERVATION OF A DOCUMENTARY FILM JEWEL ON AFRICAN FAUNA WITH DR. FÉLIX RODRÍGUEZ DE LA FUENTE´S SIGNATURE
After some years of search, elrectanguloenlamano.blogspot.com was able to find a total of three Super 8 mm movie reels of Safari Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda 1972, two of them in a very bad condition and massive presence of reddish shade, and a third one in acceptable state of conservation (even its box is almost brand new), with a certain chromatic dwindling stemming from the elapse of time, but still keeping - though with its contrast rather reduced and the inevitable presence of reddish hue- the array of colours of the original Kodak Eastmancolor 35 mm master film of Safari, exposed at ASA 64 with the aforementioned 35 mm movie camera and daylight filters by Arturo Olmo, camera operator and photography director of Safari.

Needless to say that this copy of Safari that we chose to try to digitize, restore and eventually save, also lacked to greater or lesser degree all the defects inherent to this type of Super 8 mm emulsion which unfurl within time after their exposure and development, and which has brought about till now that the very short and scarce surviving footage excerpts of this top-notch color documentary film have been mostly in black and white, since the original colour gamut had been almost utterly lost.

Projecting the movie with a sound Super 8 mm projector (Safari boasts very high quality magnetic sound with both Félix´s voice and the different ambient noises along with the ones generated by different animals of Eastern Africa) so as to try to more deeply evaluate the condition of preservation of the Super 8 mm movie and the chances of digital salvation of it, seemed us very risky (there were some crisp stretches of film about to break), so we took the copy to a highly experienced firm in the digitization of small film formats, which confirmed us that albeit by a hairbreadth, the movie could be saved through top quality HD scanning, frame by frame, striving after restauring the original colours and contrast as much as possible, as well as getting a 100% elimination of the flicker (typical in the low quality digitizations made by means of recording with digital videocameras of Super 8 mm movies projected on a screen).

Therefore, the integral HD digitization of Safari, made in a handcrafted way, frame by frame, and with maximum film flatness, was accomplished based on a full restoration (after cleaning and eliminating the dust affecting most of the footage) at 24 fps, with a remarkable recovery of the original colours, a great improvement in sharpness and contrast, optimization of colour saturation, greater RGB chromatic precision in high key and low key areas, etc, it all through the use of a very professional HD scanning equipment working at a very slow speed and getting all feasible information from the film, by means of a three CCD sensor featuring a resolution of almost 900 lines of TV, and boasting an excellent focusing accuracy and evenness of image lighting both on the center, borders and corners of all the frames, greatly thanks to the high end lenses delivering exceedingly high definition and to the direct digitization on the very emulsion.

This way, the digitization was accomplished, after a lot of hours of strenuous effort by a highly experienced professional, transferring the whole Safari movie restored and digitized in HD format from a very powerful computer to a high quality DVD disc, whose visualization for the first time in a 32" Sony Bravia HD television, with an attendance of some enthusiasts of Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente with many decades of loyalty, was a real relish, with highly emotive moments being lived, together with the remembrance towards the great Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, whose work, 32 years after his death, goes on being very alive.

Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente advances on a Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 across the savannah of Ngorongoro Reserve (Tanzania) with his guide and friend Wacamba Kaloloy, surrounded by thousands of animals of the most different species.

This excellent off-road vehicle featuring a then unmatched reliability and durability, was with difference in 1972 the most versatile in the market, and among its specs highlighted: 125 H.P at 3600 rpm, 3-speed transmission, four-wheel drive, a very reliable front inline 6 cylinder 3.9 litre engine, highly sturdy semi-elliptical leaf springs, hydraulic 4 wheel drum brakes, and a virtually indestructible drive train. 

Close-up of Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente and the guide Wacamba Kaloloy watching the huge African fauna of Ngorongoro Reserve (Tanzania) from the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55.

Two zebras drinking water in a pool of Ngorongoro Crater area (Tanzania).

A herd of gnus in the savannah of the Natural Reserve of Ngorongoro Crater (Tanzania).

Eland, the largest of African antelopes, advancing with a stately air through the savannah of Ngorongoro Crater.

A female rhinoceros and its calf in Ngorongoro Crater area, with some gnus in the background.

Arturo Olmo films the female rhinoceros and its calf from a very short distance. The pachyderm takes up a defensive position previous to attack, indicating the camera operator, Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente and Wacamba Kaloloy that they mustn´t approach closer, though the presence of Félix inhibits any possible onslaught.

Flamingos in Lake Nakuru (Kenya), located in the Great Valley of Rift, and where sometimes up to 2 millions of these birds gather. Of the total figure of existing flamingos on earth, around 50% are in Rift areas belonging either to Kenya or Tanzania.

Giraffes stepping forth through the savannah of Serengueti Reserve (Tanzania).

Beginning of the African lion nuptial parade in Serengueti Reserve (Tanzania).

Final stage of the nuptial parade of African lion in Serengueti Reserve (Tanzania).

During the shooting of Safari documentary film, Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente´s perseverance and unbounded doggedness enabled him to get into the family life of lions and lionesses throughout the first weeks after the cubs birth, which was a further world first-time event featured in this wonderful movie on African fauna made in early seventies of XX Century. 

A lioness resting on a tree of the forest by Lake Manyara (Kenya). Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente managed to shoot for the first time the remarkable fact carried out by the lions and lionesses placed by this big lake, which are the only ones in their species usually climbing to trees, spending the daylight on them, both to protect tjemselves from mosquitos and to avoid the attacks of the exceedingly powerful African buffalos weighing up to one ton, whom they hunt in the night but are the dominant forces of their habitat during the daylight hours.

Close-up of the lioness sleeping on a tree of the forest by Lake Manyara (Kenya). Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, camera operator and photography director Arturo Olmo and the guide Wacamba Kaloloy approached very much, on foot, up to a distance of three meters, to shoot these images which were hitherto unknown.

The lioness on the tree has just heard the three men approaching and becomes somewhat alert, staring at them and showing its teeth, but once more, the presence of Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, perfectly aware that the feline has already eaten and is in a semilethargy state, inhibits any attack.

After detecting the presence of Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente and realize that none of the three men has the aim of harming it, the lioness on the tree of the forest by Lake Manyara resumes its rest.

Maybe the most dangerous moment throughout the whole shooting of Safari movie in Eastern Africa in 1972. The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 in which Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, Arturo Olmo and Wacamba Kaloloy are marching on, approaches to a pack of African buffalos (some of them weighing up to 1,000 kg). The distance from the car to the huge bovids - very wild and bad tempered - is very short. While Arturo Olmo films the scene, a colossal dominant male gazes at the three men and emits an alert sound. 

The members of the group of African buffalos (Syncerus caffer) hear the sound and the whole herd puts on watch, with two bulky dominant males standing in a middle defensive position previous to preventive attack. The context is risky to the utmost, since in spite of their massive size and weight, these animals are able to run at 60 km/h, so they could easily overturn the Toyota Land Cruiser FJ 55 and kill its occupants.

The strongest dominant male glares the three men, specially to Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, identified by the huge African buffalo as the boss of the human group. The cold blood and very deep knowledge of fauna behaviour of the great naturalist, who shows himself quiet at every moment, proves once more to be decisive, and when the herd of buffalos notice that none of the three men are a menace to them, calm returns.

Simba, a huge and very famous African lion, deeply admired by Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente. The appearance of this giant feline on screen is one of the most spectacular and unforgettable instants of Safari.

A cheetah of the Masai Reserve of Amboseli (Kenya), near Kilimanjaro, has just spotted a Thomson gazelle (which can run at 80 km/h) in the distance, and it will strive after hunting it.

The cheetah, able to reach a speed of 114 km/h, is the fastest animal on Earth, and after an exceedingly swift chase, it has managed to hunt the Thomson gazelle.

Murchison Falls, through which Nile Victoria river pours its waters into Lake Albert, it all happening in Uganda territory.

Another image of Murchison Falls (Uganda), one of the most beautiful places in Africa.

Image showing a detail of the massive volume and strength of Murchison Falls water (Uganda), whose thundering sound reverberates all over its adjacent area.

A panoramic view of Murchison Falls (Uganda) in the background, shot from Nile Victoria river by camera operator and photography director Arturo Olmo, who is travelling with Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente on board of a fluvial boat.

A 4,000 kg giant hippopotamus going out of the waters of Nile Victoria river (Uganda), which has one of the biggest colonies of these pachyderms existing in the world.

Beautiful orange beaked wading birds by Nile Victoria river (Uganda), a true paradise for any enthusiast of ornithology.

Goliath heron (Ardea goliath), the largest of ciconiformae ardeidae and one of the most representative and exotic birds of Nile Victoria river area.

Nile Victoria river, in its stretch between Murchison Falls and Lake Albert, is the last intact colony of African giant crocodiles, which often reach four meters long and four thousand kilos weight. Here we see a huge one filmed from the fluvial boat on which Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente and Arturo Olmo undertook a dangerous trip (above all due to the constant presence of hippopotami) whose result was the shooting in 35 mm cinematographic format of images including a great percentage of the fauna of this span of Nile river near its sources, which was mostly unfilmed until the arrival of Félix in 1972.

Two huge African giant crocodiles resting and thermoregulating themselves beside the waters of Nile Victoria river (Uganda). The vivid description, as always without any script, improvising at every moment, with a very deep knowledge on each species, unrestrainable passion and an exceptional mastery of Spanish language, made by Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente as to the whole range of animals appearing in Safari, is one of the most prominent highlights of his professional career and were the prelude to the extraordinary series El Hombre y La Tierra (The Man & The Earth), with which he amazed audiences all over the world from 1974 on, becaming the maximum international quality benchmark in the production of Fauna documentary films along with the British David Attenborough, as well as being a great friend of Jacques Cousteau and Conrad Lorenz.

A group of papions walking beside the waters of Nile Victoria river, filmed by the cameraman and photography director Arturo Olmo from a fluvial boat on board of which also goes Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, making their way to Lake Albert, after having left Murchison Falls behind.

The tremendous collective defense of papions allow them to successfully face the attacks of leopards and even lions.

A very beautiful jaribu (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis), one of the most exotic African birds, and whose bill polychromy is a first-rate visual treat, by the waters of Nile Victoria river (Uganda).

African elephants in an area with trees near Lake Albert (Uganda), filmed from a very short distance by Arturo Olmo. Dr. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente is by him, and his presence inhibits the attack of the huge pachyderm visible on the left of the image, which is staring at both men, trying to perceive any possible danger for the herd.

African elephants advancing across territory close to Lake Albert. They can reach a weight of 6,000 kg, eating daily around 300 kg of food.

Close-up of an African elephant feeding himself on grass in an adjacent area to Lake Albert.

Copyright Text and Photos: José Manuel Serrano Esparza

FÉLIX RODRÍGUEZ DE LA FUENTE AWARDED DOCTOR HONORIS CAUSA IN MEMORIAM BY BURGOS UNIVERSITY

GARAJONAY: PARAÍSO NATURAL DE LA ISLA DE LA GOMERA

Texto y Fotos: José Manuel Serrano Esparza
ENGLISH
El Parque Nacional de Garajonay, ubicado en la parte alta de la Isla de la Gomera (situada al oeste de Tenerife y a la cual se accede por ferry), perteneciente al grupo occidental del archipiélago canario, es uno de los más bellos lugares del mundo y en 1986 fue incluido por la UNESCO en la lista de bienes naturales del Patrimonio de la Humanidad. 

Tras llegar al puerto de San Sebastián de la Gomera (visible ligeramente a la derecha del centro de fotografía superior, en la cual más allá del mar se distingue el perfil del Teide, al norte de Tenerife), hemos de iniciar la subida que lleva hasta el Parque Nacional de Garajonay, siguiendo la carretera de San Sebastián a Arure por la cumbre.

Durante los primeros minutos de ascensión, comenzamos a percibir la característica primordial de la Isla de la Gomera que será una constante e irá acentuándose progresivamente conforme nos acercamos a la Joya del Terciario: su muy abrupto relieve, con fuerte personalidad propia y que tiene su máxima manifestación en el Parque Nacional de Garajonay, que posee una extensión de 3.984 hectáreas, con una altura mínima de 650 m. y máxima de 1.487, ocupa el 10% de la superficie de la Isla de La Gomera, y consta de dos zonas principales:

a) La zona de Los Roques (enormes formaciones rocosas típicas de las Islas Canarias, que son generalmente imponentes torres de roca procedentes de algún volcán), destacando sobre todo el Roque de Agando, el Roque de la Zarcita y el Roque de Ojila.

b) El Bosque de Laurisilva, envuelto a menudo (al igual que los Roques) por una densa niebla que le confiere un aspecto imponente y sobrecogedor a la vez, y que junto con los numerosos arroyos y cascadas que configuran el Parque Nacional de Garajonay, aportan la humedad suficiente para generar su mítico aspecto, con un monteverde (que cubre más del 85% de su superficie) como principal seña de identidad, formado por varios tipos de bosques con cerca de 20 especies arbóreas de hoja perenne, y en el que abunda un muy exótico brezal de cumbre. Esta es la zona más representativa de todo el Parque Nacional de Garajonay, y contemplar estos bosques prehistóricos se convierte en una experiencia que deja huella indeleble.

Roque de Agando, el más espectacular y conocido de todos los existentes en el Parque Nacional de Garajonay. Rodeado de laurisilva, fayas y brezos, se encuentra a una altitud de 1250 m sobre el nivel del mar y tiene una altura de 180 metros, estando situado a poca distancia de la Carretera del Centro.

Muy cerca de su cima se hallan los restos de un primitivo santuario güanche.

Pertenece al término municipal de Santiago de la Gomera y está ubicado entre el Barranco de la Laja y el Barranco de Benchijigua.

Un rasgo peculiar de la Isla de la Gomera con respecto a las demás Islas Canarias es que las erupciones más recientes se produjeron hace unos dos millones de años, lo cual ha generado una constante y duradera acción erosiva que ha modificado el relieve volcánico original, creando el escarpado paisaje actual de la isla.

Por otra parte, la ausencia de erupciones volcánicas en el Cuaternario ha hecho que Los Roques sean elementos muy característicos de la isla, en especial del Parque de Garajonay.

Dichos Roques, que son esencialmente restos de chimeneas volcánicas descubiertos por la erosión, contribuyen decisivamente a la más que notable espectacularidad del Parque Nacional de Garajonay, con el complemento añadido de un fenómeno singular observable por los visitantes: la transición en cuestión de segundos de paisaje despejado con los Roques plenamente visibles

a su cobertura paulatina por la densa bruma casi tangible típica de este paraíso natural. Este muy peculiar denso manto de niebla de textura única, genera además un crisol lumínico en el que los rayos solares dispersos cruzan esta especie de capa húmeda etérea y se proyectan en múltiples direcciones, modificando constantemente luces y sombras en los Roques, llegando incluso a alterar en ocasiones la percepción visual de su color y contraste.

Merece la pena visitar el Parque Nacional de Garajonay sólo por ver ésto.

El paisaje en la zona es muy abrupto, tal y como puede apreciarse en esta fotografía, con presencia masiva de densa niebla que aporta al entorno la cantidad necesaria de humedad para que su naturaleza sea magnífica, con profundos barrancos y sucesión de bellísimos valles verdes habitados por una amplia gama de especies de flora y fauna, 120 autóctonas y exclusivas de las Islas Canarias y 26 de ellas endémicas de la Isla de La Gomera, sin olvidar la existencia en su zona inferior de una amplia gama de antiguos típicos caseríos canarios (por ejemplo, al fondo del muy escarpado valle que aparece en la imagen puede verse el Caserío de La Laja, rodeado de pino canario, fayabrezal y un espléndido paisaje abancalado circundante).

En otro orden de cosas, las carreteras que surcan el Parque Nacional de Garajonay disponen de una extensa red de miradores que permiten disfrutar estos paisajes únicos e incomparables, ubicados en la zona alta de la Isla de la Gomera y que fueron territorio sagrado para los gomeros prehispánicos guanches, cuyos reinos de Agana, Orone, Mulagua, Ipalán) convergían en él.

Otra imagen del extraordinario paisaje de escarpados barrancos y valles del Parque Nacional de Garajonay  (fruto de la falta de erupciones en época reciente y de la erosión del agua), con restos de cultivos de terrazas en primer plano.

Puede apreciarse como el omnipresente denso mar de nubes está comenzando a extenderse, modificando constantemente las zonas de luces y sombras, transición plenamente observable por los visitantes.

El sancta sanctorum de la Joya del Terciario: la zona de Laurisilva prehistórica constituye el área más emblemática del Parque Nacional de Garajonay, con una amplia gama de árboles subtropicales de hoja perenne, en un marco paradisíaco caracterizado por su elevada humedad y unas temperaturas suaves.

La abundancia de vegetación es tan profusa que los árboles situados a ambos lados de los senderos cubren frecuentemente los mismos con sus ramas que se tocan en su zona superior, generando una fantástica visión típica de bosques prehistóricos que aparecen en famosas películas como King Kong o de la saga Tarzán.

El entramado de árboles que forman el tupido bosque de Laurisilva Terciaria del Parque Nacional de Garajonay, es una auténtica reliquia viviente que destaca por una riqueza y variedad cromática de verdes que hay que ver para creer, todo ello catalizado por el mar de nubes que envuelve la zona y cuya condensación del vapor de agua en las hojas de los árboles con la subsiguiente lluvia horizontal, eleva notablemente la cantidad de agua en el terreno.

Se trata de una Laurisilva en la que el elemento determinante es el monteverde, que cubre más del 85% de su superficie, con cerca de 20 especies arbóreas como el brezo, el acebiño, el haya, el viñátigo, el loro y otras, complementadas por muy abundante presencia de musgos y líquenes que cubren los troncos de los árboles, así como helechos, todo ello producto de la elevada humedad ambiental.

Es un auténtico fósil botánico superviviente de los bosques húmedos de variadas especies de hoja perenne que en el Terciario cubrían prácticamente toda Europa y que en su inmensa mayoría desaparecieron con el paso del tiempo.

Además, la estratégica localización de esta Laurisilva Terciaria resulta decisiva para la recarga hidrológica de la Isla de La Gomera y la protección de sus suelos.

El Bosque de Laurisilva del Parque Nacional de Garajonay posee gran exotismo y es el área más relevante de la zona de cumbre orientada al norte de la Isla de la Gomera, hallándose cubierta por selvas, bosques y matorrales arborescentes que constituyen el monteverde.

Las sensaciones que se perciben al adentrarse en estos santuarios botánicos subtropicales formados por especies arbóreas de la familia de las lauriáceas y que constituyen el vivo testimonio de un pasado remoto, no son fáciles de describir, siendo también enormemente interesantes sus suelos profundos y característicos de las medianías septentrionales influidas por las brumas de los alisios.

Es además una zona carente de heladas, con temperaturas medias anuales constantes entre 15º C y 19º C y precipitaciones relativamente escasas y muy variables de un año a otro, que oscilan entre los 600 y los 1.600 mm.

Estas especialísimas condiciones medioambientales que posibilitan la existencia de Laurisilva, obedecen a que la capa inferior del viento alisio, fresca y húmeda durante su recorrido sobre el Océano Atlántico, asciende al entrar en contacto con la abrupta orografía de la Isla de la Gomera, y durante dicho ascenso el aire se condensa generando nubes que se encuentran con la tapadera de la capa superior del alisio, más cálida y seca, con lo que al producirse en esta zona el encuentro de las nubes con el relieve, tienen lugar ligeras lloviznas y la denominada lluvia horizontal.

Si a ello añadimos la gran cantidad de agua captada de las densas nieblas por la Laurisilva, se comprende todavía mejor la maravillosa singularidad de estos bosques terciarios.

Roque de la Zarcita, situado a una altitud de 1233 metros. Puede apreciarse como un típico mar de nubes comienza a extenderse y cubrirá en breve este domo fonolítico, que fue origoinalmente una aguja o protusión que sufrió el empuje de una columna eruptiva, tras lo cual la erosión diferencial eliminó los materiales escoriáceos externos más débiles, preservando a la vez el cuerpo central de lava masiva, más resistente y que constituye el núcleo de los modernos Roques del Parque Nacional de Garajonay, con forma de monolitos de paredes verticales.

Primer plano del Roque de la Zarcita captado pocos segundos después de la fotografía anterior. La densa bruma repleta de humedad que ha cruzado ya su cima y está a punto de envolverlo y las diferentes trayectorias que adoptan los haces solares al atravesarla, han modificado tanto el cromatismo de las paredes del Roque como su contraste y el de sus zonas adyacentes.

Este fenómeno, visible también en otros famosos roques canarios como el Roque de Las Ánimas en Tenerife, hizo que en tiempos remotos, hace miles de años, los primitivos pobladores güanches los consideraran montañas encantadas morada de una misteriosa luz que aparecía en momentos concretos.

Impresionante acantilado en el Parque Nacional de Garajonay, con profusión de verdes y palmeras que nacen de la roca. Una vez más, se aprecia un mar de nubes que avanza hacia este sublime paraje y que lo envolverá de húmeda niebla en cuestión de pocos minutos, cambiando paulatinamente las zonas de luces y sombras de su orografía.

Son también visibles diversas especies de árboles de hoja perenne, ya que la riqueza botánica de este paraíso natural es impresionante, al ser La Gomera una isla volcánica de 12 millones de años de antigüedad, creada por acumulación de materiales emitidos en distintos períodos eruptivos separados por prolongadas fases de calma.

Típico paisaje del Parque Nacional de Garajonay. Se trata de los Roques de San Pedro (también denominados Roque chico y Roque Grande) en Hermigua, rodeados por varias típicas casas rurales canarias y una abundantísima variedad de árboles y plantas con explosión cromática de verdes por doquier.

La densa bruma húmeda, muy representativa de este maravilloso biotopo y esencial para la preservación del monteverde, se aproxima a ambos colosos generando un entorno natural bellísimo y sobrecogedor a la vez, y quienes aguarden la llegada de dicha niebla podrán percibir con rotundidad su muy especial textura, por momentos casi tangible, y que se convertirá en parte de su ser.

No en vano, existen innumerables leyendas güanches centradas en las cualidades y gran importancia que para la zona de Garajonay tuvieron desde su misma génesis estas inefables brumas densas y húmedas, que son quizá las mayormente responsables de la denominación "Isla Mágica" con la cual se ha definido tradicionalmente a este trozo del Edén.

Los cultivos de terrazas en las laderas de acceso a Garajonay son otro de los rasgos típicos de la zona, en la que la economía se ha basado diacrónicamente en la agricultura y el sector primario en general, ya sea para autoabastecimiento (hortalizas) o bien orientado a exportación (plátano).

Pese a que la orografía del terreno dista de ser la más adecuada para esta actividad, el atávico tesón y cuidado paisajístico de los habitantes de La Gomera y resto de las Islas Canarias, han hecho posibles estos cultivos gracias a las terrazas construidas con ímprobo trabajo sobre el terreno y a la red de canales y sistemas de riego sabiamente distribuidos.

Copyright Texto y Fotos: José Manuel Serrano Esparza

GARAJONAY: NATURAL PARADISE OF GOMERA ISLAND

Text and Pictures: José Manuel Serrano Esparza
SPANISH
Garajonay National Park, located on top area of Gomera (one of the Canary Islands, on the west of Tenerife and accessible by ferry or plane), belonging to the Western group of Canarian Archipelago, is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

After arriving at the harbour of San Sebastián de la Gomera (visible in the middle of upper picture, in which Mount Teide profile in the north of Tenerife island can be glimpsed beyond the sea), we have to start the climbing leading to Garajonay National Park, following the road from San Sebastián to Arure across the summit.

During the first minutes of ascension, we begin realizing the fundamental trait of La Gomera Island which will become a constant thing and will progressively keep on standing out as we approach the Jewel of Tertiary: its very abrupt relief, featuring a very strong personality and having its maximum embodiment in Garajonay National Park, encompassing an extension of 3,984 hectares, with a minimum height of 650 m. and maximum of 1,487 m., occupying the 10% of the surface of La Gomera Island, and consists of two main zones:

a) The Area of the Roques (huge rocky formations typical in Canary Islands, which are often imposing natural rock towers whose origin was a volcano), the most famous ones being the Roque of Agando, the Roque of La Zarcita and the Roque of Ojila.

b) The Forest of Laurisilva, often wrapped (in the same was as the Roques) by a dense mist bestowing it a grandiose and awesome appearance alike, and that along with the slew of brooks and cascades shape Garajonay National Park, provide enough levels of humidity to generate its mythical look, with a monteverde - green mount-  (covering more than 85% of its surface) as a main identity token, made up by different kinds of woods with around 20 species of evergreen trees and inside which a very exotic variety of mountain  heath is very abundant.

This is by far the most representative area of the whole Garajonay National Park, and watching these prehistoric forests becomes an unforgettable experience.

Roque de Agando, the most spectacular and well-known of all the ones existing in Garajonay National Park. Surrounded by laurisilva, fayas and heathers, it is located at a height of 1250 meters on sea level and has a height of 180 m., being situated within a short distance of the Road of the Center.

Very near its summit, there are the remnants of a primitive Güanche little shrine, which proves that the old inhabitants of the island climbed this Roque.

It belongs to the municipal district of Santiago de la Gomera and is located between the Barranco of La Laja (La Laja Gully) and the Barranco of Benchijigua (Benchijigua Gully).

A distinctive hallmark of Gomera Island in comparison to the rest of Canary Islands is that the most recent eruptions took place around two million years ago, which has brought about a steady and durable erosive action having modified the original volcanic relief, begetting the current steep landscape of the island.

On the other hand, the lack of volcanic eruptions during Cuaternary Age has made that the Roques are very characteristic elements of the island, particularly in Garajonay National Park.

Such Roques, which are esentially leftover parts of volcanic chimneys discovered by erosion, perform decisevely for the astonishing spectacularity of Garajonay National Park, with the added bonus of an amazing atmospheric phenomenon observable by visitors: the transition in a matter of seconds from a clear sunny landscape with the Roques being utterly visible

to its progressive covering by an almost tangible dense mist typical of this natural paradise. This highly special thick coat of fog oozing a unique texture, also spawns a luminic melting pot in which sparsed solar beams cross this kind of aethereal wet layer and project in manifold directions, constantly modifying lights and shadows areas in the Roques, even sometimes altering the visual perception of their colour and contrast.

It´s worth visiting Garajonay National Park only to see this.

The landscape in the area is very abrupt, such as can be seen in this picture, with massive presence of dense mist providing the environment the suitable quantity of humidity in order that its nature can be so magnificent, with deep ravines and a succession of gorgeous green valleys inhabited by a wide range of flora and fauna species, 120 of them being autochthonous and exclusive from canary Islands and 26 of them which are endemic from Gomera Island, without forgetting the existence on its lower area of a comprehensive assortment of typical old Canary houses (for instance, in the bottom of the very steep valley appearing in the image, you can see the Caserío of La Laja - The Typical Old House of La Laja- , surrounded by Canary pine, fayaheather and a splendid nearby landscape of terraces).

On the other hand, the roads crossing Garajonay National Park have a far-flung network of lookouts enabling to relish these unique and peerless sceneries on top of Gomera Island, which were a sacred ground for the Gomera Island Güanche Prehispanic inhabitants, whose kingdoms of Agana, Orone, Mulagua and Ipalán converged into it.

Another image of the extraordinary landscape of steep gulches and valleys of Garajonay National Park (fruit of both the absence of volcanic eruptions in recent times and the erosion of the water), with remains of terraced cultivations in the foreground.

It´s visible how the omnipresent dense sea of clouds is beginning to spread, constantly changing the areas of light and shadow, a transition fairly watchable by visitors.

The sancta sanctorum of the Tertiary Jewel: the area of prehistoric Laurisilva makes up the most representative area of Garajonay National Park, with an extensive array of evergreen trees, in a paradisiac setting characterized by its high levels of humidity and mild temperatures.

The abundance of vegetation is so lavish that the trees located on both sides of the footpaths frequently cover them with their branches touching one another on their aupper area, which results in a fantastic sight typical of prehistoric forests appearing in famous movies like King Kong or the Tarzan saga.

The framework of trees setting up the dense Forest of Tertiary Laurisilva of Garajonay National Park is a full-fledged living relic exceedingly prominent in a richness and chormatic variety of greens that has to be seen to be believed, it all being catalyzed by the sea of clouds wrapping the zone and whose condensation of water vapour on trees leaves with the subsequent horizontal rain, highly raises the water quantity on the ground.

It is a Laurisilva whose seminal component is the monteverde, covering more than 85% of its surface, with around 20 treee species like heather, acebiño, beech, viñátigo, loro and others, complemented by the abundant presence of mosses and lichens covering the trees trunks, together with ferns, it all as a result of the high ambient humidity.


It´s a true botanic fossil, survivor of the humid forests of different species of evergreen leaves which covered nearly all of Europe during Tertiary, of which vast majority of them dissappeared with the elapse of time.

Besides, the strategic location of this Tertiary Laurisilva becomes decisive for the hidrological recharge of Gomera Island and the protection of its grounds.

The Laurisilva Forest of Garajonay National Park exudes great exotism and is the most relevant area of the summit area oriented to the north of Gomera Island, being covered by forests, woods and arborescent underbrush which make up the monteverde.

The sensations perceived on getting into these subtropical botanic shrines shaped by tree species of Lauriaciae family being the living testimony of a remote past, are not easy to describe, also being hugely interesting his deep floors characteristic of the northern medianías influenced by the fogs of trade winds.

It´s also an area lacking freezes, with constant annual average temperatures between 15º C and 19º C and relatively scarce and variable from year to year rainfalls oscillating between 600 and 1,600 mm.

These exceedingly special environmental conditions enabling the existence of Laurisilva, are due to the fact that the fresh and humid lower layer of trade wind during its path over Atlantic Ocean, climbs on making contact with the abrupt orography of Gomera Island, and during such rise, air condenses generating clouds whcih touch the cover of the hotter and drier trade wind upper layer, so when the encounter of clouds with the relief in this area takes place, slight drizzles and the so-called horizontal rain develop.

If we add to it the great quantity of water captured from the dense mists by the Laurisilva, we can even better understand the wonderful uniqueness of these tertiary forests.

Roque de la Zarcita, located at a height of 1,233 meters. It can be seen how a typical sea of clouds begins spreading and will cover within a short time this fonolitic dome, which was originally a natural spire which suffered the push of an eruptive column, after which the diifferential erosion obliterated the weakest outer scoriaceous materials, simultaneously preserving the more resistant central body of massive lava, which makes up the core of the modern Roques of Garajonay National Parks, with shape of monoliths of vertical walls.

Close-up of the Roque of the Zarcita captured a few seconds after the previous picture. The dense mist full of humidity which has already crossed its peak and is about to wrap it, along with the different trajectories described by sun beams on piercing it, have modified both the chromatism of the Roque walls and its contrast, which also affects to its adjacent areas.

This phenomenom, also visible in other famous Canarian Roques like the Roque of the Ánimas in Tenerife, made that in remote times, thousands of years ago, the primitive Güanche inhabitants considered them enchanted mountains that were abode of a mysterious light appearing in specific moments.

Impressive cliff in Garajonay National Park, with lavishness of greens and palm trees being born from inside the rocks. Once more, you can watch a sea of clouds advancing towards this sublime landscape and which will wrap it in a humid mist within a few minutes, progressively changing its orography areas of lights and shadows.

On the other hand, different species of evergreen trees are also visible, since the botanic weakth of this natural paradise is amazing, and La Gomera is a 12 million years old island, created through accumulation of materials emitted in different eruptive periods separated by prolonged calm stages.

Typical scenery of Garajonay National Park, with the Roques of San Pedro (also called Roque Chico and Roque Grande) in Hermigua, surrounded by some characteristic Canarian rural houses and a great profusion of trees and plants, with a chromatic massive chromatic presence of greens everywhere.

The dense humid mist, highly representative of this wondrous biotope and essential for the preservation of the monteverde, approaches both giants, generating an astoundingly beautiful and daunting alike, and those awaiting for the arrival of such mist will be able to clearly perceive its very special texture, almost tangible by the minute, and which will become a part of their beings.

Not in vain, there are tons of Gäunche legends focused on the qualities and great significance that for the area of Garajonay had since its very origin these unutterable dense and humid mists, that are perhaps the key factor for the denomination of ´Magical Island´ with which this piece of Eden has traditionally been called.

The terrace cultivations on the slopes of access to Garajonay are another of the typical features of the area, in which economy has diachronically based on agriculture and primary sector in general, either for self catering (vegetables) or for exportation (bananas).

Although the ground orography is far from being the most suitable for this activity, the atavistic tenacity and landscape care of both Gomera and rests of Canary Islands inhabitants, have made possible these cultivations thanks to the terraces built through strenuous effort on the land and also to the wisely distributed watering systems.


Copyright Text and Pictures: José Manuel Serrano Esparza

GLORIETA EN EL JARDÍN DEL PALACIO DE SCHÖNBRUNN: LA BELLEZA DE LA AUSTRIA CLÁSICA

Texto y Fotos: José Manuel Serrano Esparza
ENGLISH

La Glorieta de los Jardines del Palacio de Schönbrunn es uno de los edificios más representativos de Viena, una de las ciudades más bellas del mundo.

Construida en 1775 por orden de la Emperatriz María Teresa de Austria, fue obra del arquitecto Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf como parte de la remodelación integral del Parque Schönnbrunn que le fue encomendada, ubicándola sobre la cima de su colina y dotándola de peristilo con perfil clásico.

Merece la pena caminar cuesta arriba la suave pendiente de aproximadamente 800 metros que separa el Palacio de Schönbrunn de la majestuosa Glorieta, desde la cual se puede disfrutar de unas maravillosas vistas del Palacio de Schönbrunn y de la ciudad de Viena tras él.

La Glorieta propiamente dicha está formada por una sección central con forma de arco de triunfo, rodeada de alas arquitectónicas formadas por elegantes arcos semicirculares.

Dicha sección central dotada con ventanas acristaladas se halla coronada por una poderosa estatua de águila imperial (obra de Benedikt Henrici) posada sobre un globo dorado y rodeada de trofeos.

Por otra parte, si ya de por sí la visión panorámica existente de la ciudad de Viena desde las inmediaciones de la Glorieta

es inolvidable, existe la posibilidad añadida de subir una escalera de piedra interna y acceder a la terraza de 20 metros de altura, dotada con balaustrada y que funciona como mirador, desde la cual las vistas de la capital austríaca son todavía más fascinantes.

En otro orden de cosas, además de las escaleras de piedra que llevan a la sección central acristalada, hay otros peldaños laterales alineados con enormes esculturas de trofeos que evocan armas y escudos antiguos romanos, estandartes y leones, todo ello realizado por Johann Baptist Hagenauer.

Y otro de los aspectos más destacados de este famoso edificio es su magnífico Café Gloriette, ubicado en su interior y que se ha convertido con el paso del tiempo en una de las referencias de la capital vienesa en lo tocante a repostería (faceta en la que esta ciudad es probablemente la más surtida del mundo), con una muy variada oferta de exquisitos pasteles: Sachertorte (tarta de chocolate con mermelada de albaricoque), Aida original Mozart cake, Strudels de hojaldre rellenos de frutas, la Dobos Torte (hecha con ocho o más capas finas de bizcocho crujiente, rellena con mantequilla de chocolate y cubierta con un glaseado de caramelo), Apfelstrudel, Buchteln (delicioso bizcocho relleno de mermelada de albaricoque), Vanillekipferl (galletas dulces de vainilla con nueces, almendras o avellanas).

Dentro del Café Gloriette también se pueden tomar una amplia gama de cafés de gran calidad: Viennese Coffee (expresso pequeño o doble, ligero y cubierto con crema batida), Franziskaner-Melange (con crema en su parte superior), Kleiner Brauner (Moka simple con algo de leche), GroBer Brauner (Moka doble con algo de leche), Kapuziner-kleiner Schwarzer (parecido al capucino italiano), GroBer Schwarzer (Moka doble sin leche ni crema), Einspänner-GroBer Schwarzer (Moka doble con crema en la parte superior), Melange (50% Moka y 50% leche caliente, con leche cremosa sobre su zona superior), Verlängerter (variedad especial de Moka diluido con leche), etc.

GLORIETTE IN SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE GARDEN: THE BEAUTY OF CLASSICAL AUSTRIA

Text and Photos: José Manuel Serrano Esparza
SPANISH

The Gloriette of Schönbrunn Palace Gardens is one of the most representative buildings in Viena, one of the most beautiful cities worldwide.

Built in 1775 following an order by the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, it was made by architect Johann Ferdinand Hetzendorf as a part of the comprehensive restructuring of Schönbrunn Park he was entrusted with, placing it on the summit of its hill and providing it with a peristyle featruing a classic profile.

It´s worth walking up the approximately 800 meter gentle slope separating Schönbrunn Palace from the stately Gloriette, from which you can relish wonderful wights of Schönbrunn Palace and the city of Vienna behind it.

The Gloriette itself is made up by a central section sporting a triumph arch shape and surrounded by architectural wings set up by elegant semicircular arches.

Such a central section is glazed and crowned by a powerful statue of an imperial eagle (a work by Benedikt Henrici) perched on a golden globe and surrounded by trophies.

On the other hand, if the panoramic view of the city of Schönbrunn Palace and the city of Vienna in itself from the surroundings of the Gloriette

is unforgettable, there´s the further chance of going up a stone inner spiral staircase and gain access to the 20 meter high terrace with a bannister working as an oriel, from which the views of the Austrian capital are even more fascinating.

Moreover, aside from the stone spiral staircase leading to the glazed central section, there are other lateral flights of steps aligned with huge statues of trophies evoking old Roman weapons and shields, pennants and lions, made by the sculptor Johann Baptist Hagenauer.

And other of the most relevants sides of this well-known building is its gorgeous Café Gloriette, located inside it and which has turned within time into one of the benchmarks of the Austrian capital regarding confectionery (a realm in which this city is probably the best stocked in the world) with a very wide assortment of exquisite cakes: Sachetorte (chocolate cake with apricot jam), Aida original Mozart cake, Strudels filled with fruits, Dobos Torte (manufactured with eight or more thin layers of crumbled pastry, filled with chocolate butter and covered with a glazed sweet), Vanillekipferl (vanilla candies with nuts, almonds or hazelnuts).

Inside the Gloriette Café it´s also possible to drink a plentiful range of top-notch quality coffees: Viennese Coffee (small or double expresso, light and crowned with whipped cream), Franziskaner-Melange (with cream on top), Kleiner Brauner (simple Moka with some milk), GroBer Brauner (double Moka with some milk), Kapuziner-kleiner Schwarzer (similar to Italian capuccino), GroBer Schwarzer (double Moka without milk or cream), Einspänner-GroBer Schwarzer (double Moka with cream on its top), Melange (50% Moka and 50% hot milk, with creamed milk on its top), Verlängerter (special variety of Moka diluted with milk), and others.